Monday, December 06, 2010

Mzungu, the movie (the final muse)

After a month to cool off and getting away from politics thankfully... I am offended by a new documentary called "Mzungu." I recently watched the trailer and offensive, even if it is far too repeated in recent posts, is the best word for it. It's meant to be about 4 young American kids who come to "Africa" to volunteer and "change the world." The trailer goes on, "On a continent plagued by disease, poverty, survival..." (plagued by survival???) Now, in all honesty, I have not seen this film in full, but if the trailer and all the other little snippets of awesomeness on the website are any indicator, I think my guess about this movie is pretty close.

I'll let you in on something: hundreds of "mzungus" come to Uganda every year thinking they are going to help, thinking they are going to effect change. If they are lucky they'll have a great experience, and like the trailer says, it's very likely that Africa will change them more than they have changed anyone or anything in Africa. We then go back, share our great experience with friends and family, maybe get a little embarrassed that we were so egotistical in thinking that we could just show up for a month or two and have any real effect on the people who have been living here forever. Here's what we don't do - make a documentary about it! Usually we all end up learning that Africa is not the place that Western media and education lead us to believe. That it is NOT a place totally and utterly ravaged by war, famine, disease, genocide and poverty and though those things do exist on the continent, the vast majority of Africans are going about living their lives and if they got the chance to see this trailer, as some of my Ugandan friends have, they would be quite offended too. They are offended by the implication that Africa needs these bored, young, American twentysomethings to come "change" them and save them from the war, famine, disease, genocide and poverty. They are offended by the implication that they strive for "survival." They are offended by the notion of being lumped all together as one: these bored, young, American twentysomethings spent some time in Uganda and Rwanda yet the trailer keeps saying "AFRICA" perpetuating the SarahPalinesque idea that Africa is one country and not the diverse continent of 52 countries that it is.

I have a morbid curiosity drawing me to see the film though I know if I did my eyes would be in a perpetual state of roll. If you have the opportunity to see this film, go for it, just know what you're getting into.

Thursday, November 04, 2010

My Muse, Parts 2 and 4

This muse is a tricky one indeed. I was on such a roll last night that I broke my own rule, the one that says "Do not bring your laptop to bed with you." Before I knew it I was surfing around, looking at some of the stuff that had been earmarked to read later, re-reading my own old posts and then it was some obscene hour and I was telling myself that morning Becca was really going to be upset with us when the alarm goes off at 6:45am.

So here are parts 2 and 4 in the series, and yes I mean 2 and 4 number 3 is a long one so I thought I'd save it for last.

Part 2

Going hand in hand with the first point on my list, I am offended by the wealth of misinformation out there, the people who create and propagate it and the smear tactics used by all politicians around election time. I watched actual US television for about 2 hours in the past 10 months and I saw enough of this to throw my hands up in disgust several times. Americans, please read about topics, and from several different sources. Do not blindly accept as fact that which your political commentator (on either side) is telling you.

Part 4

Finally, I am deeply and personally offended by thievery. I guess I have been fortunate to have only been the victim of a major theft once (that's if you don't count when the city of Philadelphia and their towing company thugs stole my car right out of its parking space), when my laptop and wallet were stolen out of my Kisumu hotel room (Never, ever stay at the Sunset Hotel!). I remember having this offended feeling then and I had it again on Monday night when, while sitting in traffic with my window down, talking to a friend on the phone, a hand reaches in my window and tries to take said phone away. I was lucky this time and managed to hold onto the phone and yell at the guy until he ran away across the street. The idea that someone can just come and help themselves to my stuff makes me feel so violated - in a way that I could never fully understand until someone stole from me.

Wednesday, November 03, 2010

My Muse, Part 1

I really wish I knew what it was that gave me this itch. The itch to write, that is. I have some friends who write, seemingly effortlessly, several times per month. I have others who are motivated to write by sadness, ok, I guess I'm glad that I don't need to be in a deep funk to write but knowing how to put myself in one of these creative moods would vastly help with the frequency of my blogging.

I'm starting to think that it might be those times when I feel deeply and personally offended. Usually this feeling is not directed at any one person but it still makes me feel not so warm and fuzzy that it's a negative feeling, the need to bitch, that could quite possibly be my best muse. So, what am I so offended about?

- Starting with the most timely, I am utterly offended that Wisconsinites voted out Russ Feingold yesterday in favor of some DB endorsed by the horrible Tea Party. Feingold was instrumental in Campaign Finance Reform, he was the ONLY senator to vote against the Patriot Act, he voted against invading Iraq and he's been quite active in the Senate Committee on Foreign Relations. He has spoken out against the Anti-Homosexuality Bill here in Uganda and has also been watching closely the run-up to the presidential election here, concerned that it wouldn't be free and fair. HE is who I want representing me in Washington, HE was a superior senator who actually did some good work in Washington, I am sad to see him go.


I was going to go on, and I will but realizing that this four-part bitch session went on for several paragraphs, I decided to spread it out a bit. Oh dear, I may have to follow this series with a four-part love session, with actual warm fuzzies. I'll start taking entries now...

Things left behind

Alphabet Manor, my humble abode, where I live with two roommates and two cats, has become a repository of sorts. As we host couchsurfers and as friends leave Kampala for new adventures, we become the, sometimes temporary, proprietors of all kinds of stuff. Some of this is stuff that was used and well-loved while its previous owners were here, but for reasons of practicality were left behind. For this reason we have an entire library of books, wine glasses, Cranium and a camping back-pack full of things deemed unnecessary for a trip to Southern Africa (the owner is coming back for that last one). For the same reason, a young family on the other side of town has a new dog.

The other category of stuff is that which the previous owner thought would be necessary to bring to Uganda but then found no use for it/could buy it here/was unable to use up the copious amounts that they brought. This is why we give free gifts of mosquito repellent, sunscreen and condoms to couchsurfers who pass through and why I have a bag full of at-home pregnancy tests in my closet.

I'm considering an analogy likening these quirky little gifts to the effect that these people have had on our lives, leaving us with lessons, memories and love, but it is just too schmaltzy for the moment, so I'll leave it up to your imagination.

Saturday, June 05, 2010

Life, more or less ordinary

If you've been following my blog you've read a bit about life in other countries, life as an expatriate, specifically my life. A friend's blog about her family's move from Atlanta to Zurich, Switzerland has inspired me to post again after several instances of several months of radio silence. Her experience is so familiar yet so foreign to my own and I wish I could some day have the chance to sit down with her and compare notes.

I think that one reason that I've been so bad about posting is that I've stopped seeing my life here as something so noteworthy. It's normal to me and I'm less able to point out the abnormal, interesting parts for others. I did get a brief glimpse in February when I was preparing for my sister, Leah and cousin, Maura to come visit. One of the things I do automatically when preparing for a visitor from overseas is think about how they'll see and react to the various situations they'll inevitably be thrown into during their trip. How will they handle public transport? How will they react to the blatant poverty that's all around? or the disparity between the classes? or the taste of the food?...

I guess overall, I've gotten used to haggling over $0.25, the frighteningly terrible driving, the quirky greetings (Me: "Hello." ESL: "Fine, how are you?" Me: "uuh, also fine..."), the beautiful surroundings and perfect weather, the delicious and cheap produce... I've also gotten used to the very low cost of living (relatively speaking) that allows me to have things that really only the quite wealthy can afford in the US, and I've gotten used to the guilt associated with the aforementioned luxuries.

One thing that is very difficult to get used to, though, is the transient nature of the lives of expats. I've now been here for two years and in that time I've seen many of my expat friends come and go. One very good friend just left, I've gotten word that two more will be leaving in August and I will likely be following relatively shortly after. I remember talking with a friend who has been working in various embassies over the past several years, she was saying how lonely and isolating it can be, always saying goodbye and avoiding meeting new people depending on how long they plan to stay around.

On the up side, things never really get boring or predictable and I have people to visit in more or less any region of the world I could choose to go, but on the down side there's a never ending calendar of going-away parties to attend and people who used to be close enough to meet for a coffee are now on the other side of the world, but I guess it's all really part and parcel of the life that we've chosen.

Sunday, March 14, 2010

The wind is in from Africa

I am the sales manager for a solar light distributor and it's part of my job to answer questions about our products. However, I'm fairly certain that the most common question I am asked these days is something to the effect of "How much longer do you think you'll stay in Africa/Uganda?" I get this question from family, friends, fellow RPCVs even people who themselves have been living here for a long time. My mom is certain that she will never reclaim her daughter from Africa, though every time I'm home she does her best to get me to commit to moving back.

The truth is that I'm not sure when and where I'll go next, but I am happy where I am, loving my job and comfortable in my skin. I miss my family and friends back in the US but I believe that each person has their own path to take and that this is mine.

I remember my urge to travel the world starting at some point during my college days at Iowa. I can remember walking along the Iowa River under an overcast sky, listening, through my headphones, to Joni Mitchell singing about far-off places and all the interesting people there are to meet out there, all the wonderful adventures there are to be had.

At that time I was limited by school and my swimming career, otherwise I might have participated in a study-abroad program. I had to settle for vacations being more or less centered on competitions or training but Joni's poetry never left me.

There is a bit of irony in the fact that my mom is the one who introduced me to Joni Mitchell's music, one of the things that inspired me to travel and live abroad. Her songs mentioning stamps of many countries and passport smiles, Paris, Rome and Grecian Isles and that "Urge for Going."

With this as well as a fascination I found in talking to people I met previously who had lived in other countries, spoke more languages than English pushed me on my way to where I am now. Now I have lived in three countries, speak three languages (ok, not fluently but I get by) and have visited 15% of the world's countries and when I think about returning to the states another of Joni's lines comes to mind: "Will you take me as I am?... Strung out on another man?" from her song "California." To me the line questions whether a readjustment to the US is ever fully possible.

Maybe I'll find out one day.

Final Goodbyes

Any time you say goodbye to someone, there’s really no telling if it’s that last time you will see them. Living so far away from family, I am a bit more cognizant of that fact and this is definitely one of the drawbacks to living abroad. If I simply lived in Philadelphia, a last-minute trip to the mid-west would be much more feasible for many reasons.

Ever since I started Peace Corps, goodbyes, especially with my grandparents began to hold a lot more meaning than they used to. The price of a ticket home along with the time it takes (12-15hr for Senegal, 24-30hr for Uganda) would likely prove prohibitive for me.

In the past few months, I have gone through this last goodbye twice with my grandpa. With the help of family, I was able make the last minute trip home to attend my grandma’s funeral in September and at the end of that trip, not knowing when I’d next be home, I anticipated the likelihood that I would not see my grandpa again and I know that he was thinking the same thing.
It was an emotionally stressful time with my grandma’s passing; all the family together, making decisions, etc (Side note: I’m pretty sure the phrase “too many cooks in the kitchen” was coined at a function where many Jews were in attendance. My Jewish family, with plenty of big personalities is no exception – everyone has their opinion and it’s their way or the highway).

I was able to make the trip home because of some generous relatives and I felt like I needed to be there for my grandpa more than anyone else. Being home for the funeral also turned out to be nice in that I got to see family and friends that I hadn’t seen in years, I would say that one of the high points about living abroad is that when you come home, people are more happy and excited to see me but sometimes I’m also starting to think that it’s wearing off. Since my grandma was 85 years old with 3 sons, 6 grandchildren and 2 great-grandchildren, she had lived a very full life and her funeral was much more a celebration of her life than mourning for a life left unlived.

Coincidentally, during my short stay, I celebrated my 30th birthday. Another drawback to living so far away is that I am rarely with family on birthdays or holidays. This was my first birthday home since 2005.

At the end of my visit, I said a tearful goodbye to my grandpa. I should say that the last few times we’ve gone through this, he has also cried – something I can’t ever remember seeing before and something that gets me choked up every time I think about it.

After this experience I decided to make a trip home for the holidays because contrary to what my lifestyle might say about me, family is very important to me and I miss passing the holidays with my family. Again, hadn’t done this since 2004. The trip was great and relaxing and just what I needed but at the end I found myself saying a potentially last goodbye to my grandpa.

The difference is that this time, I don’t know when I’ll be back.

Tuesday, February 02, 2010

Flash Back

I've been living here for going on 2 years now and although I have an admittedly horrible memory, I cannot remember it being this hot in Kampala since I've arrived. Everyone seems to be complaining about the heat. I'm currently laying in bed, not doing anything, sweating. Today was a two-shower day, reminding me of my days in Kaolack, though there are a good couple months per year with three-shower days in Kaolack.

Oh, another thing, I'm actually writing another blog these days. Not that I'm proud of it but just wanted to let you know that I have actually been writing regularly, it's just drivel. I've found myself as the Hash Scribe for the Kampala Hash House Harriers. Be warned that it won't be funny or even interesting for those of you who don't know the hash and it may not be funny or interesting for some of you who are even members of the hash but here it is: http://www.kampalahashhouseharriers.blogspot.com/

Smiles

Acting a fool

It's an obscene hour for a week night and I'm awake. I have several posts in the works that are much heavier and therefore a bit intimidating to sit down and finish but I will eventually do it. I've been reading friends' blogs and have been reminded of how neglected mine has been. Work and extracurriculars have been keeping me busy in 2010 and I'm looking forward to a great year; a visit from my sister (the last member of my family to make the trip to Africa) and a cousin and a trip to Zanzibar (inch'allah) are slated for the first part of the year.

Looking at the date has left me baffled several times already. 2010 means that it has been 5 years since I graduated from graduate school, 9 since undergrad and since my retirement from competitive swimming, 13 (ugh!) since I graduated high school and 18 since I was called to the Torah as a Bat Mitzvah. Time definitely moves differently as I get older but I have this sneaking suspicion that it somehow moves faster in Uganda, well, for me at least. Weeks seemingly gone in the blink of an eye.

Before this becomes another year of neglecting the blog I wanted to share a humiliating but funny story. Last weekend I went to see Avatar with my friend Dan. After seeing it here and loving it I'm really kicking myself for not seeing it in 3-D in the US. But I digress. After the movie Dan and I were discussing what we had just seen while walking down the ramp that takes you from floor to floor in the Garden City shopping mall. As we got to the end of one part of the ramp I look up and notice a man with his camera phone pointed at me. I stare at him for a moment before saying in an obviously irritated way "WHAT are you doing?" The man responds by shifting the aim of camera phone to a location behind be. Dan and I both turn to look and find a group of kids smiling, posing for a photo. Foot inserted in mouth, (let's be honest, this isn't an uncommon position for me) I apologize and scurry down the rest of the ramp.

All the best in 2010.